Polysorbate 80, also known as Tween 80, is a powerful ingredient in skincare and cosmetics. It is a versatile surfactant, emulsifier, and solubilizer that improves the texture and consistency of formulations, making it easier to create smooth, easy-to-apply skincare and body care products.
If you use oil and water in your products, polysorbate 80 may be your best choice. Understanding the composition and mechanism of action of polysorbate 80 helps formulators create higher-quality, more stable products, from lotions to cleansers.
What is Polysorbate 80?
Polysorbate 80 is a thick, amber-colored liquid. It is a nonionic surfactant that helps oil and water mix. This ingredient is composed of sorbitol, oleic acid, and ethylene oxide.
Sorbitol is commonly extracted from fruits such as apples, cherries, and apricots.
Oleic acid is found in plant oils such as olive oil, sunflower oil, and grapeseed oil.
Polysorbate 80 is often compared to similar products such as polysorbate 20 or polysorbate 60, but the main difference lies in its fatty acid composition.
Polysorbate 80 contains oleic acid, making it particularly effective at emulsifying thicker oils such as castor oil, hemp seed oil, and avocado oil.
Why is polysorbate 80 used in cosmetics?
The advantage of polysorbate 80 lies in its versatility. Here are the reasons why formulators love it:
Emulsifier: Used to mix oils and water in formulations, ensuring a smooth texture in lotions and creams. Its hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) value is as high as 15, making it especially suitable for emulsifying thicker oils.
Surfactant: Reduces surface tension, helping grease, dirt, and impurities mix with water for easier rinsing-essential in cleansers and shower gels.
Solubilizer: Polysorbate 80 ensures uniform dispersion and prevents separation when dissolving essential oils or fragrances in water-based products.
What are the differences between Polysorbate 20, 60, and 80?
The difference between Polysorbate 20 and 80 (and 60) lies in their fatty acid composition:
Polysorbate 20 is derived from lauric acid and is ideal for light oils, commonly used in facial toners and fragrance solubilizers.
Polysorbate 60 uses stearic acid, making it suitable for thick creams and butters.
Polysorbate 80 is oleic acid-based and works well with heavier oils such as castor oil, making it ideal for deep nourishing care and oily cleansers.
When comparing Polysorbate 80 and 20, the main differences are viscosity and oil-weight compatibility.
Applications of Polysorbate 80 in Skincare Products
Polysorbate 80 is widely found in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products:
Makeup Remover Oils: Emulsifies oils, removes makeup and dirt without leaving greasy residue.
Treating Lotions and Creams: Stabilizes oil-water emulsions, resulting in a smooth and even texture.
Fragrance Solubilizer: Ideal for adding essential oils or fragrances to water-based products such as toners or body sprays.
If you're wondering if polysorbate 80 is safe, rest assured-it is widely used in regulated cosmetics and even food formulations.
